for more information, please call 281.320.1188


Wind River Pools offers Pool Equipment Repairs and Replacements as well as Weekly Maintenance for those who are looking for qualified and affordable services. Being both a pool builder and a pool owner makes us the very best choice to handle your pool needs. If you would like more information please contact Wind River Pools.

Chemical Ranges for Pool Water

Water chemistry is probably the most important factor in maintaining your pool. Balanced water is not only essential for your swimming pleasure but it is a requirement to safeguard your equipment and plaster. Be sure to test your water on a weekly basis and pay close attention to the chlorine, alkalinity and PH levels. Keeping these levels within the recommended ranges will help insure long life of your equipment and plaster.

CHLORINE LEVEL: 2.0-3.0 ppm (unless there is a heavy swimmer load)
PH LEVEL: 7.2-7.8 ppm (if below 7.2 add PH increaser,
if above 7.8 add muriatic acid)
(recommended for Salt Systems 7.2)
ALKALINITY LEVEL: 80-125 ppm (Bioguard recommends keeping it at 100 ppm)
CALCIUM HARDNESS: 200-400 ppm (Max 500 - 1000)
(Cyanuric Acid)
MINIMUM 40 (50-75 ppm recommended for chlorine pools)
(for Salt Water Pools - High End 75-80)
METALS: None (Copper, Iron, Manganese)
(Salt System Pools)
2900-3200 ppm (Pool Salt 99% pure, No anti-caking agents)
Phospates: 150-300 ppm (Drain Water or add Phosphate Out)

TIPS - for trouble free pool operations

A strong chlorine smell in your pool actually indicates that you don’t have enough free chlorine. You need to add chlorine by “shocking” the pool (or “Boost Mode” for Salt Systems). It will take 2 or 3 times the normal amount of shock to achieve “break point chlorination”. This should raise the free available chlorine level to TEN times or more than combined level of chlorine.

The primary cause of burning eyes and itching skin is a pH imbalance.

It is recommended that you backwash your pool when the pressure is approximately 8-10 pounds above your clean filter operating pressure according to your pressure gauge or once every 60 days. If you have a D.E. filter, add 6-10 one (1) pound coffee cans of D.E. thru the skimmer after each backwash.
(See the label on your filter for amount. Note * 1 lb. Coffee can = ½ lb. of DE)

It is recommended that you breakdown and clean your DE Filter once a year. Cartridge filters will need broken down and cleaned more often.

Never add acid thru the skimmer on pools with heaters.

If it is predicted to freeze leave your pool pump and poolsweep motors running to prevent the equipment and the PVC pipes from freezing. You can put them back on their normal time when there is no chance of freezing conditions in the near future. For pools with automatic controllers, program the pumps so they will turn on when the temperature gets near freezing. (For pools with automatic controllers see manual – “freeze protect” - to program)

Periodically pool water needs to be professionally tested by a full service swimming pool specialty store. Most stores will offer this service for free or free with purchase. Usually they will provide you with a computerized printout. The test should include “free” and total chlorine levels, as well as all the components for properly-balanced water, such as pH, total alkalinity, calcium hardness, and cyanuric acid (stabilizer). At this time it is also necessary to test for metals such as copper, iron and manganese. These metals should not be present in pool water as this can cause discoloration of plaster. If they are a metal & scale sequesterant should be added.

Mass merchants, grocery stores, and discount stores sometime offer chemicals at a slightly discounted price but in the long run it is better to pay a little more for quality products and expert advice that you find in the specialty stores. Keep in mind that chlorine has a shelf life of about 6 months so it is best not to buy more than can be used in that time.

To maintain a proper filtering system, it is necessary to keep the skimmers and pump baskets free of debris. Remember that even if you have a pool service company maintaining your pool, they generally are there only once a week which may not be often enough during periods of heavy debris. If these baskets are allowed to be packed with debris, water flow will be severely restricted which will lead to overheating or pump failure. If this happens, water turnover can cease.

Decks and coping should be rinsed down once a week with fresh water. With salt water pools it may be necessary to rinse more often, especially after heavy splash out. When salt water evaporates it leaves a salt residue that can be corrosive.

CHEMICALS – used in pool maintenance

  1. Chlorine - 3” stabilized chlorine tablets recommended
    1. Fill automatic chlorinator (feeder) and adjust according to directions
    2. Pools without automatic chlorine feeders - Place 1 – 6 tablets (depending on need as determined by test kit) directly into skimmer basket * Do Not use this method if skimmer is plumbed with flex piping.
    Note: Generally chlorine is not required in pools with Salt Systems unless water temperature drops below 59. Salt systems will not produce chlorine when water temperature drops below 59.

  2. Shock - Granular shock in bucket or 1 lb. Bags are recommended
    1. General maintenance - every two weeks in summer & once a month in winter
    2. Salt System use “Boost Mode” (refer to manufacture’s user guide)
    Note: Granular shock is generally not used in pools with Salt Systems.

  3. Acid – Muriatic Acid is used to lower pH and Alkalinity (In pools with Salt Systems it may be necessary to add acid every week. Salt Systems tends to make the pH rise)
  4. Soda Ash or pH+ - used to raise pH (Soda Ash)
  5. Sodium Bicarbonate – used to raise alkalinity
  6. Algaecides – Caution algaecides can cause other problems ie; staining of plaster and chlorine deficiencies
    1. Use only if Algae is very bad. Always try heavy chlorine shocking first.
    2. Must use special algaecide for Black Algae. We recommend Algaecide 60 or SeaKlear. Regular algaecide or shock will not kill Black Algae.
    Note: Do not recomend Yellow Out. We have found this brand tends to lock up pool water chemistry.

  7. Clarifier - (Use regularly in Salt Pools to combat high Calcium Hardness & Scale Deposits)
    1. Clears cloudy water
    2. Makes small particles clump together so they can be filtered or vacuumed easier
  8. DE (Diatomaceous Earth)
    1. Must be added to skimmer after every backwashing (DE Filters only)
    2. DE coating on the outside of filter grids enables micron filtering of the pool water. DE allows for dirt particles and other impurities to be easily backwashed from the fabric of the grids.
  9. Enzyme Product - (We recommend Pool Perfect)
    1. Controls oil & scum
    2. Keeps tile line and filter cleaner
  10. Metal & Scale Sequesterant - (Metal Out)
    1. Stain & scale prevention
    2. Increases life of heater
  11. Cyanuric Acid (Stabilizer)- Added to pool water to inhibit the ultra violet rays from destroying the chlorine
    1. Generally not needed if using stabilized chlorine
    2. Check level regularly and add when needed.
    Note: Salt pools do require the addition of stabilizer (check level carefully- adding to much stabilizer can cause a chemical water lock)


Air in Line – (Bubbles coming from Pool Outlets)

  1. Skimmer door not moving freely. (stick caught in door?)
  2. Leaves and debris in skimmer. (If leaves blank over skimmer it will starve pump of water – air will get through but water will not.)
  3. Basket in front of pump is full.
  4. Pump lid is not on tight.
  5. Not enough water in pool. (Water level should be in the middle of tile line)
  6. O-ring on the pump pot lid must be free of debris
  7. O-ring on the pump pot lid must be soft and not cracked. If dry, lubricate o- ring with silicon or teflon lubricant. (not Vaseline – lubricant can be purchased at pool supply store)
  8. O-ring in the lid of the automatic chlorinator needs to be lubricated or replaced (Because they come in direct contact with chlorine, these O- rings can get hard and corrode easily. It is recommended that these along with the filter screen in the bottom be replaced once a year)
  9. Air has become trapped in the system- Release air by opening the air relief valve on top of filter.

Pool is Loosing Water

  1. Evaporation. (A pool can lose as much as ¼” of water a day or 1” to 2” a week, especially in windy and hot weather or when cold fronts pass or low humidity)
  2. Light niche is leaking. (Check with dye test)
  3. Backwash valve is not holding or not shutting all the way. (Call technician – valve may need to be replaced.)

Test for Leak or Evaporation

Fill bucket of water to the brim. Set bucket on the top step or next to pool. Mark water level on tile water line with piece of tape. Turn off all water features (waterfalls, fountains…) and there should be no swimmers during this test. Compare water levels after 3 or 4 days. If it is evaporation the water loss should be equal. If the pool has lost more water it is time for further investigation.

Spa Drains Down
  1. Valves not set in right position
  2. Check valve not working (Call technician)

Pressure to High

  1. Filter needs backwashing or cleaning
Pressure to Low
  1. Starving pump of water – clean all baskets
  2. Check water level – add water if needed

Chlorine Smell and Eye Irritation

  1. Check your chlorine level. (Don’t be fooled by this – the problem is too little chlorine, not to much) Adjust PH level between 7.2 and 7.8 for maximum chlorine efficiency and super chlorinate (or shock) to rid your pool of contaminates.

Pool lights not Operational

  1. Check for tripped GFI or breaker

Automatic Chlorinator – Tablets Not Dissolving

  1. Remove tablets and check screen at bottom to be sure it is not clogged. (We recommend that you replace this screen once a year.)

Yellow Stains on plaster in Salt Pools

  1. Using Salt that is less than 99% pure and/or contains anti-clumping/anti-caking agents.
  2. Not brushing salt until it’s totally dissolved.